Mitsu, London EC2: Determinedly fun and delicious - restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

It wont win any plaudits from Japanese purists, but theres still much to admire hereNo spoilers, but I knew even before Id reached for my chopsticks that Mitsu would be a vast improvement on its predecessor, because it has taken the place of Nobu Shoreditch in the under-gusset of the Aethos hotel, a Swiss-owned lifestyle hospitality brand, in east London. Nobu was gargantuan, moodily lit (that is, pitch black), woundingly expensive and terrifically hard to book, despite having something like 797...